Unless you're well versed in the world of bespoke or tailor-made suits, you would be forgiven for not having come across the term 'half-canvas' before now. But given men's suits are quite literally our specialty at Suit Direct, here's the lowdown of what to expect when purchasing a half-canvas suit yourself, and how it differs from full-canvas pieces.
With half-canvas suit jackets, the interlining is often made using horsehair, which is typically blended with a synthetic fabric or cotton. This canvas interlining is fitted between the internal lining (often made using a detailed fabric) and the external layer of the suit, giving it better shape and support.
The addition of a half-canvas panel makes for better construction of the garment overall. The half-canvas element extends from the shoulder to halfway down the jacket, allowing for a more structured and comfortable fit that moulds to your shape. It's generally considered better quality and will stand the test of time more so than your standard jacket.
Half-canvas suits take less work than their full-canvas counterparts, resulting in a more accessible option which still retains quality and structure. Full-canvas suits tend to feel heavier due to the extra material, which can slightly restrict movement, but offer a lifetime of wear and timeless appeal despite the dry cleaning costs.
Given half-canvas suit jackets are more breathable, they're a more versatile option that can be worn throughout the year, no matter the season. Due to only one breast being canvassed, they still retain a high level of quality and structure.
One of the first indications of a half-canvas suit jacket? If you notice visible stitching running through the canvas layer, it's most likely half-canvas. If such stitching isn't visible, it often means the suit jacket has been fused together using glue, resulting in a cheaper alternative.
You can also try out the 'pinch test'. If you pinch the chest fabric and lining between your fingers, you should be able to feel three thick layers - there will only be the usual two, often stiff layers if the jacket is fused.
Both weight and texture are great indicators of a half-canvas suit jacket too. While they are far superior to their fused jacket counterparts offering a heavier yet mouldable fit, they also likely feel far more natural. Given its ability to mould itself to a person's frame, it can drape naturally across the body and feel incredibly comfortable despite its heavy properties.
If you're not entirely sure on taking the plunge just yet, let's take a look at just how comfortable half-canvas suits can be to possibly win you over.
We've spoken about how, over time, the canvas moulds to your frame for a leaner, sharper look but the winning combination is its breathability and durable nature. Ultimately, you still get a lot more hidden benefits than with a fused jacket due to a half-canvas suit being a made-to-measure product. It takes more time to produce such a garment, but you can guarantee the quality and feel will be far superior.
In conclusion, a half-canvas suit jacket is your failsafe option for all seasons, isn't too costly and can withstand all the dry-cleaning sessions it needs to carry you through every single special occasion.
